In recent years, the fashion industry was beginning to show signs of embracing true inclusivity. Runways were dominated by models of varied sizes, and campaigns spotlighted body diversity as a message of progress. However, new reports reveal a disturbing regression toward a predominantly thin ideal. According to a recent Vogue Business analysis, a staggering 97.1% of the 9,038 looks across 198 womenswear shows featured models measuring between US size 0-4 — hardly a sign of genuine size diversity. This trend underscores a broader societal push back, with catwalks and advertising reinforcing a narrow beauty standard that many critics argue is both unfair and unhealthy.
Among industry insiders, alarm bells are ringing. Elektra Kotsoni, Deputy Editorial Director of Vogue Business, describes the current situation as “horrible,” highlighting that in Milan alone, only 4 of 55 brands showcased models outside the straight-size range — the lowest proportion since such data collection began. This resurgence of skinny-shaming, bolstered by the widespread use of weight-loss drugs like Ozempic, signals a societal shift fueled by consumer obsession with thinness. Celebrity endorsements and a rising trend among influencers promoting extreme weight management reveal how the #bodypositivity movement is increasingly sidelined in favor of commercialized perfection. Such drugs, originally designed for diabetes treatment, are now contributing to shortages and a parallel online market that encourages rapid, often unhealthy, weight loss.
Yet, despite the industry’s flirtation with inclusion just a few years ago, the trend is veering sharply in the opposite direction. The decline of plus-size visibility on the runway is lamented by models like Felicity Hayward, who describes the previous era (2011-2017) as a “golden age” of representation. Today, plus-size models are reportedly losing ground, with some resorting to weight loss to stay relevant in a market that is increasingly favoring the ultra-thin. Designer Rick Owens exemplifies this shift; after showcasing a handful of plus-size models last season, he has now entirely excluded them. Such decisions threaten to reduce fashion to a mere product of societal standards—an unsettling placeholder for a culture that once prided itself on progress and diversity.
While this reversion to conventional standards might appear to be a superficial industry trend, it bears profound social implications. Brands are removing dedicated plus-size sections and shrinking their ranges, effectively making inclusion inaccessible outside online platforms. Meanwhile, critics like sociologist Susie Orbach argue that these developments reflect the commodification of bodies—a societal shift where physical appearance is increasingly dictated by market forces rather than individual authenticity. The unsettling reality is that the fashion world, and by extension society, may soon face a pivotal question: are we returning to a narrow definition of beauty because it’s easier to sell, or because society is truly more comfortable with it? As influencers and sociologists continue to debate, the next big question might be whether this push toward superficial uniformity is masking deeper societal anxieties about identity, health, and progress itself.
