From Underwear to Mainstage: The Cultural Comeback of Pointelle
Once a humble textile associated with girls’ vests, thermal wear, and delicate underwear, pointelle is making a surprising return to the spotlight—this time commanding the fashion runways and social media feeds of the youth. Defined by Merriam-Webster as “an openwork design, typically in the shape of chevrons,” pointelle has historically been seen as a domestic, even girlish fabric. But recent trends suggest it has taken on a social and cultural significance far beyond its origins. With brands like Cou Cou Intimates, Leset, and luxury designers such as Loewe showcasing vibrant, provocative pieces, this fabric is now at the forefront of a broader cultural shift—one marked by nostalgia, innocence, and subtle defiance.
Fashion Icons and Runway Revelations Spark the Trend
The resurgence kicked off when renowned designer JW Anderson debuted pointelle looks in his 2024 collection, featuring a striking Pepto-Bismol pink co-ord. This playful yet confident palette shattered traditional notions of fabric and color, signaling that pointelle is no longer confined to childhood or undergarments. Days later, the Loewe runway revealed a series of vividly colored V-neck dresses that demonstrated the fabric’s versatility and cultural resonance. Influencers and fashion insiders, like style icon Hailey Bieber, have embraced the trend, turning it into a staple of everyday chic. Their popularity amplifies its social relevance, transforming pointelle from modest to provocative, especially when worn by grown women—who use it as a tool of subtle rebellion.
Looking Backward to Leap Forward: The Power of Nostalgia
The appeal of pointelle lies in its nostalgic charm. As one of the brand founders, Rose Colcord of Cou Cou Intimates, explains, “People are craving familiarity, especially with how fast the world is changing.” This fabric evokes childhood innocence, free from societal judgments about appearance or style—an escape that resonates deeply with a culture increasingly obsessed with authenticity and self-expression. The pattern’s delicate holes and soft texture evoke images of crayons, candy floss, and carefree days, giving consumers a nostalgic boost in turbulent times. This cultural shift toward embracing ‘the simple life’ underscores a larger societal longing for comfort amidst chaos.
Subversion, Sexuality, and the Next Big Question
However, the story of pointelle doesn’t stop at nostalgia. When worn by adults, especially as underwear or form-fitting tops, it serves as a cultural signal of defiance. As Dalton, a fashion analyst, notes, “There’s something provocative about basic underwear on adult bodies.” Kristin Stewart’s recent public appearance in Y-fronts, for example, exemplifies this paradox—an ordinary garment, yet charged with gender and societal commentary. At moments of social tension—like high-profile red carpet events or post-breakup revenge outfits—pointelle features as a symbol of resilience and provocation. The question now is: will this trend redefine notions of femininity, modesty, and rebellion in the digital age? As viewers, influencers, and sociologists grapple with its social meanings, future challenges will determine whether pointelle remains a fleeting trend or evolves into a lasting cultural phenomenon.
Ultimately, what’s most fascinating is that a fabric once dismissed as merely “girlish” now stands at the intersection of nostalgia, sexual agency, and social critique. As the next chapter unfolds, the pressing question is whether society will embrace this delicate fabric as a symbol of youthful innocence or a tool of subversion—and what this says about our collective cultural trajectory.
